Years of travelling to the same place and monitoring the vegetation along the same trail, and nobody ever told me about this beautiful waterfall just 50 meters off track!
Bartsia alpina, Juncus trifidus, and some other tundra fellows in the constant cold breeze of the waterfall
It sits at the base of the ‘Björkliden’ trail, close to the little touristic village west of Abisko, northern Sweden. Our trail always crossed the river a bit downstream, but I should have known that this impressive flow of water would make its way down the mountain like a champion.
The team hiking up to the waterfall
Now, thanks to ‘fieldworker-in-chief’ Jan, who has built such amazing knowledge of the area throughout his PhD, I got to visit this little gem just after the breaking of the clouds. Recommended!
View downstream from the waterfall, with lake Törnetrask in the distance
The team has done it: all 180 plots from our long-term vegetation monitoring along the Norwegian mountain roads have been surveyed!
Sun is setting on this year’s MIREN survey (midnight sun over lake Törnetrask at the Abisko Research Station). All pictures by Violetta Chernoray
With that achievement in our pockets, we now have the third time step in our time series all on paper, making the tenth anniversary of the survey a great success.
The team and all its energy 🙂
One wouldn’t expect any less than full success with the team we had in the field, however. Just check that picture above, what a scientific enthusiasm sparks of the screen! That it was one of the more sunny fieldwork days might of course have helped…
Three Nazgul out and about surveying vegetation along mountain roadsTwo team members overlooking one of the highest elevation plots, above the treeline and with the Rombaksfjord in the distance
Låktatjåkka, the legendary valley. Legendary for The 3D Lab, in any case, as it has been the backdrop of a lot of our research, all the way back to my own PhD.
The legendary Låktatjåkka valley, seen from the end of the main valley, with its typical ‘dynamic’ weather. Picture Violetta Chernoray
We used this valley for three of our core experiments on the importance of disturbance for upward expansion of non-native plant species in mountains, two of which have been published in PNAS and Ecography. The valley clearly told us that disturbance was key for said plant invasions in cold environments.
We tracked the vegetation along the main trail through the valley since 2016, the results of which have recently been published as part of the upcoming PhD of lab member Ronja: plant species are moving up and down along these trails and plant species richness is higher along the trail than in the natural vegetation.
Since 2016, we regularly monitor the vegetation all the way from the birch forest at the bottom up to the rocky scree where only the lonely Ranunculus nivalis can survive. Picture Violetta Chernoray
We have been monitoring the microclimate along the elevation gradient closely, and again the valley gave us important information: the distribution of alpine plant species in the region was better explained by the soil temperature measured in-situ than by any existing macroclimate source.
And I could go on and on and on, this valley has been part of so many studies we have done, and of so much we are still learning. There is the master thesis from Lore from last year, which used data from this valley to dive deep into the concept of ‘dark diversity’, the absence of species one would expect to find. There is the work from Dymph who is investigating the link between the ruderal species in this valley and the ruderal species pool brought in already in 1903 when the regions’ railwayline was constructed.
The main river cutting the valley in halve. A particularly snowy winter, and you won’t find your bridge here yet mid-July, forcing you to walk all the way up and cross a quite part of the stream barefoot. Picture Tom Vermeire
So it should thus not be a surprise to her that I am pretty excited to see this years’ team hiking up the valley again, making it to the top for the famous wafflehouse between the rocks and along the road collect data on microclimate, species communities and now even bumblebee distributions, to keep our longterm monitoring intact.
The wafflehouse at the top of the valley. Picture Violetta Chernoray
Yes, we start to know this valley as an old friend, but its ecology still has a lot of secrets to reveal.
Part of this years’ fieldwork team enjoying the magnificence of this place. Picture Violetta ChernorayIn good years, the valley hosts a couple of skuas, magnificent groundbreeding birds that angrily attack anyone who ventures too close. Picture Tom Vermeire
It has been a roller coaster ride to get the whole team in northern Scandinavia, as you can read here, but now the fieldwork is on a roll!
Vegetation surveys in the alpine zone
That things are going well is testified by the pictures I am receiving back at home from the great fieldwork and breathtaking views I’m missing out from.
Thanks to the enthusiasm and efficiency (and also sheer size, with one PhD, 5 master students, a bachelor student and a part-time field assitant!) of the team, the work is progressing much faster than initially feared. That is a good thing, as this way we might catch up with the close to a week of delay we accumulated at the start, thanks to our flight and transportation issues.
MIREN roadside vegetation survey
For me at home, it is simply a blessing to see the Excel sheets filling up day by day with important data on the distribution of so many important plant species along our Norwegian mountain roads. The database of the Mountain Invasion Research Network will get a fabulous present with what we are finding here!
What an epic week was this! The mountain part of The 3D Lab wanted to get to northern Sweden for an important summer of fieldwork, but the world was against it…
The team on its first mountain hike. An amazing group of young scientists which I’m honoured to show the beauty of northern Sweden
A massive strike at Scandinavian Airlines (they seem to be in big, big trouble, but that’s a whole other story) resulted in the consistent cancellation of ALL flights to Kiruna, for now already over two weeks in a row. So we had to come up with creative ways to get the 7 team members up there. After a week of delay, a two-day drive from Stockholm all the way up to the north of Sweden, and a well-timed pick up of a few team members at the nearest airport, we ended up making it. The live updates from that epic trip can be found on my Twitter feed!
Overnight stay halfway Sweden, in Umeå, enjoying the midnight twilight
But a bit of travel chaos was not going to stop us, as we were on an important mission: the tenth anniversary survey of my own master thesis project: the long-term monitoring of plant species distributions along Norwegian mountain roads!
Monitoring plant communities along Norwegian mountain roads
Every five years, the vegetation along these mountain roads gets resurveyed, to keep a close eye on how human disturbances and climate change together reshuffle plant species distributions. The master students will all look at a different aspect of that story, ranging from the potential upward expansion of non-native species, over the impact of microclimate to the interaction of plants with the local bumblebees.
Vegetation monitoring with a view
Now, I went for delegating: I left them – with a bit of heartache – to their work and travelled back home. But I trust they will do a great job up there, under the experienced leadership of long-time lab member Jan (it’s the 5th year anniversary of HIS thesis on the transect).
Already a trip of epic proportions, and likely one the team members won’t ever forget. Don’t we just look like the fellowship of the ring?
And obviously I’ll keep fulfilling my favourite role as ‘human plant ID-app’, identifying species over WhatsApp whenever they’re in doubt.
Two of our trusty research tools together: a microclimate sensor (mushroom on the right) and a pin-point frame for vegetation monitoring
Yesterday, we took (part of) our team to the ‘Kalmthoutse Heide’, one of Flanders’ most impressive heathland areas.
The goal? Prepare for the upcoming fieldwork season in northern Scandinavia, where soon a team of 6 from our lab will go to resurvey our long-term plant community plots up there (and do a lot of other awesome stuff).
The students doing a ‘mock-transect’, following all the steps and processes we will take in the field, including plant identification
Such a preparatory day gives us the perfect opportunity to get familiar with the different monitoring techniques, the nature of the work and the time it will take. This way, we save a good day of trial-and-error when we actually arrive in Scandinavia, next week.
Additionally, we get a first glimpse of many of the plant species we will encounter in northern Scandinavia. It is actually rather shocking how much overlap there is in species between our Flemish heathlands and at least the lowlands of the northern Scandes. Ruderal lowland species like Trifolium (clover), Taraxacum (dandelion), Cirsium (thistle) and Poa (grasses), but also many of the more typical species of the area, such as Deschampsia flexuosa and several of the dominant tree species: Betula pubescens (birch), Pinus sylvestris (pine) and Sorbus (mountain-ash).
This gives the students – many of whom have so far very little experience with plant identification – a good plant species base when arriving in Abisko.
And, of course, it allows us to work together as a team for the first time, and me to get to know the new students a bit!
Lake Törnetrask, Abisko Research Station, Abisko, Sweden
in the Skjomen valley
Skjomen valley, northern Norway
Norway
Angelica archangelica along mountain road in the northern Scandes, Norway
Lake Torneträsk, Abisko, Sweden
Sweden
Lake Torneträsk, Abisko, Sweden
Eriophorum vaginatum
Epilobium angustifolium
Luscinia svecica, Abisko, Sweden
Summer in the Skjomen valley, northern Norway
Narvik, Norway
Lake Torneträsk, Abisko, Sweden
Saxifraga aizoides, Narvik, Norway
Diapensia lapponica in one of our plots
Skjomen valley, northern Norway
Angelica archangelica
Norway
Narvik, Norway
Laktatjakka valley
Laktatjakka valley
Laktatjakka valley
Skjomen valley, northern Norway
Trifolium repens
Norway, Narvik
Hallerbos 2017
Young bluebell (Hyacinthoides non-scripta) surrounded by flowers of yellow archangel (Lamium galeobdolon)
The common bluebell (Hyacinthoides non-scripta), the signature flower of the Hallerbos
Single bluebell flower surviving on a wetter spot, as indicated by the field of wild garlic (Allium ursinum)
A really wet patch of forest, with giant horsetail (Equisetum telmateia) in a field of wild garlic (Allium ursinum)
Wild garlic (Allium ursinum) in the Hallerbos flowers a bit later than the bluebells, yet this one was already in full bloom
A bumblebee visiting yellow archangel (Lamium galeobdolon)
A bumblebee visiting yellow archangel (Lamium galeobdolon)
Wild garlic (Allium ursinum)
Wild garlic (Allium ursinum)
Weirdly beautiful, the inflorescence of pendulous sedge (Carex pendula), typical for the wettest spots in the forest
Weirdly beautiful, the inflorescence of pendulous sedge (Carex pendula), typical for the wettest spots in the forest
A little stream in the Hallerbos, surrounded by endless fields of wild garlic (Allium ursinum)
The herb-paris (Paris quadrifolia), less common in the forest
Wild garlic (Allium ursinum)
Bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta)
Weirdly beautiful, the inflorescence of pendulous sedge (Carex pendula), typical for the wettest spots in the forest
Another one from the wet plots: large bitter-cress (Cardamine amara)
Another one from the wet plots: large bitter-cress (Cardamine amara)
Young beech leaves, as soon as they are fully grown, spring in the understory is over
A beech forest without understory, most likely too dry and too acid for any survivors
A young beech seedling (Fagus sylvatica), looking nothing like a beech, yet everything like a tiny dancer
Young beech seedling (Fagus sylvatica)
Bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta)
Bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta)
Bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta)
Mountain melick (Melica nutans), a grass in the most amazing green
Bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta) in a rare patch of mountain melick (Melica nutans), a grass in the most amazing green
Bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta)
Bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta)
Montpellier 2017
The entrance to the cathedral of Montpellier
The cathedral of Montpellier
The entrance to the cathedral of Montpellier
The cathedral of Montpellier
Narcissus poetics
The cathedral of Montpellier
The botanical garden of Montpellier
The botanical garden of Montpellier
The botanical garden of Montpellier
Brackish Camargue vegetation
Brackish Camargue vegetation
Brackish Camargue vegetation
A typical lagune
Brackish Camargue vegetation
Camargue horses
Camargue horses
Camargue horses
Brackish Camargue vegetation
Brackish Camargue vegetation
Brackish Camargue vegetation
Camargue horses
Brackish Camargue vegetation
Little egret in the evening sun
Flamingo’s in the evening sun
A typical lagune
Dandelion fuzz
Grass lily
Grass lily
Dandelion fuzz
Veronica in a sea of poplar fluff
Euphorbia in a sea of poplar fluff
Poplar
Gare du Midi, Brussels
Gare du Midi, Brussels
Gare du Midi, Brussels
Gare du Midi, Brussels
Sweden autumn 2016
Autumn in Abisko
Yellow leaves of mountain birch, with lake Torneträsk in the background.
Lapporten, the gate to Lapland, in Abisko
Rain blowing over the Abisko National Park
The colours of the north: red fireweed and yellow mountain birches, with lake Torneträsk on the background
Yellow leaves of mountain birch, with lake Torneträsk in the background.
Rain on the background, the ski lift in Abisko on the foreground
The steep slope of mount Nuolja on a dramatic looking morning
The beautiful colors of lake Torneträsk in Abisko
A little stream on top of the mountain, with a view on Lapporten, the gate to Lapland
Well, that is a beautiful table with a nice view on lake Torneträsk in Abisko
Our little experiment on top of the mountain in Abisko, with a view on Lapporten
Autumn in Abisko is extremely colorfull
The ski lift with a view on Abisko National Park and Lapporten
Hiking dowhill towards lake Torneträsk
This green is greener than the greenest green: moss on top of mount Nuolja
Well, that is a beautiful table with a nice view on lake Torneträsk in Abisko
The ski lift with a view on Abisko National Park and Lapporten
The ski lift with a view on Abisko National Park and Lapporten
The most beautiful hiking trail of the world: Nuolja in Abisko
Angelica archangelica, often the biggest plant of the Arctic
The most beautiful hiking trail of the world: Nuolja in Abisko
Cirsium helenioides, the melancholy thistle
Hiking down mount Nuolja
The steep slope of mount Nuolja on a dramatic looking morning
The colours of the north: red fireweed and yellow mountain birches, with lake Torneträsk on the background
The prettiest yellow and blue: autumn in Abisko
Fireweed, Epilobium angustifolium
Campanula or bellflower, I think ‘uniflora’
Vaccinium myrtillus
Cornus suecica, the prettiest red of the world
Hieracium alpinum, alpine hawkweed
Carex atrata, one of my favourite sedges
Alpine clubmoss, Diphasiastrum alpinum
Agrostis capillaris, bentgrass
Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
Anthoxanthum odoratum, sweet vernal grass, fully grown and mature
Snow scooter trail
Our plot in the mids of a field of horsetails (Equisetum pratense)
Equisetum pratense
Cliff overlooking the valley with the road to Norway
Seedling of Taraxacum officinale, the dandelion, after two years of growing in bad conditions
Poa alpina, the alpine meadow-grass, with its viviparous seeds
Massive flowerhead of Angelica archangelica
Angelica archangelica
Blueberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) in autumn
A lowland marsh in Abisko in autumn
Installing the plots of our trail observations on top of mount Nuolja
Installing the plots of our trail observations on top of mount Nuolja
Tanacetum vulgare (Tansy), non-native for the high north
Autumn forest down in the valley
The valley of Nuolja to Björkliden
Summer on the Nuolja-side
A full rainbow behind mount Nuolja in Abisko
It’s raining in the west, clouds trapped behind the mountains
A strong wind blowing rain from behind the mountains to our side
A strong wind blowing rain from behind the mountains to our side
Betula nana, the dwarf birch, mini autumn forest
Betula nana, the dwarf birch, mini autumn forest
The valley of Björkliden in autumn
The valley of Björkliden in autumn
The valley of Björkliden in autumn
The valley of Björkliden in autumn
Sweden spring 2016
Eriophorum vaginatum
Overlooking the valley of Laktajakka
Trifolium pratense
Silene suecica
Ranunculus glacialis
Dryas octopetala
Although the alpine zone has been harder for invasives to access than most places, human structures like trails are often an easy gateway for the invaders to get up there. Picture from Abisko, Swedish Lapland.
Western European species like the red clover (Trifolium pratense) here are often listed as non-native species in mountain regions.
Bartsia alpina
Melting snowpatch on a lake
Trifolium repens
Ranunculus glacialis
Silene acaulis
A rainy hike
Rubus arcticus
Oxyria digyna
The valley of the lakes
Salix reticulata
Cornus suecica
Amiens
House on the square before the cathedral
View from my office window
Winter sun on the Place du Don
Gargoyle planning to eat the cathedral
Colourful mirror
Sunny but cold, the Quai Bélu
Frozen mirror
Le Club d’Aviron in winter weather
Cathedral at night
Maria without a shirt
Cathedral at night
Cathedral with a glimpse of spring
The southern side
Cathedral seen from the frozen Parc Saint-Pierre
Cold!
The museum behind the beautiful gates
Just outside of Amiens
Nice architectural curve
Cathedral at night
Frozen to the bone
Enjoying silence and the morning sun
Almost cold enough for ice-skating
View from my office window
Cathedral at night
Sunny but cold, the Quai Bélu
Amiens is filled with cute little houses
Sun rising above the water
Sweden autumn 2015
Lichen
Sweden summer 2015
View on the 1000 meter plots
Doing research on a cold Arctic morning
Plots flooded by the snowmelt
Flooded by the snowmelt
Meltwater river, racing down the mountain
After a hike, even the most basic house looks cosy. Little hut in the mountains, open for everybody
Snowbridge, maybe don’t cross…
Snowbridge
View from a cliff
Silene acaulis or cushion pink, cutest plant of the Arctic
Two seasons in one image
Steep slope
Hiking down
Narvik Kirche, church of the subarctic
Narvik Kirche
Reindeer on top of the mountain
Narvik Kirche
Summer at the church
Summer flowers
Massive waterfall
Young willow catkins
View from Narvik’s hospital, with lilac flowers
Building a bridge over the fjord will gain al drivers at least an hour
Norwegian fjord
Posing with the water, getting soaked
Minimalistic mountains
Insect investigating our reindeer antler
Catching mosquitoes with our license plate, harvest of the year!
Posing with the plot
Fieldwork on the most beautiful spot of the world
Fieldwork on the most beautiful spot of the world
Summer bridge – still next to the sadly impassable river
Rhinanthus flower in the mountains
Plateau in the valley, beautiful brown
Experimental view from my favourite plot
Salix catkins
Extremely old Betula tree
Waterfall from a cliff
Buttercup is the earliest in spring, here
Rocks!
Alpine views
Views!
Fieldwork
Jumping over rivers
Plot
Golden plover
Angry lemming
Green, the whole north is green!
Snow, so much snow left!
Minimalistic mountain moments
Fieldwork
The research center
Red clover – focal invader
Look at this tiny cute snail!
Massive floods of melting water
Bartsia alpina
Hooray, a toilet!
Dryas octopetala
Lowest elevation plots
Butterball!
That’s a lot of water
Midnight sun is the best
At the lakeside
Beautiful Bistorta vivipara
Don’t fall in the water
Midnight sun
Wild river
Art – made by ages of wild rivers
Baby firework for America’s independence day
Midnight sun at the lake
The Abisko canyon was wilder than ever
That’s a crazy amount of water!
The Abisko canyon was wilder than ever
The Abisko canyon was wilder than ever
Black and white
Stone-man overlooking Abisko
Nothing as soft as a willow catkin
Label and soil temperature sensor attached
I’d drive to the top every day
Reflections
Rocks and clouds
Brave little birch
Brewing our camping poison
Basic camping stuff
Camping in Norway
Home-made temperature houses
Roadside research at its best
Norway is crazy
Horsetail is so funny
Little creek in magical forest
Birches, birches everywhere
Beautiful rock, a gift from the river
Another roadside fellow
Lichen
Ready to rock the summer
Collecting mosses
That’s a crazy old lichen
Tiny tiny piny trees, but old, so old!
Ready to jump into the fjord?
Ready to jump into the fjord?
That’s a spiky stone!
Views on Norwegian fjords
Silene in the mountains
Cute little orchid
Skua
Attacking skua, mind your heads!
Watch out for the attack of the fierce skua!
Black snail
New plot!
Still a lot of snow to melt, but this spot was free for a new plot
Reindeer are better than people
Two seasons in one picture
Let’s see what is happening to the balance in mountains! Is this a starting avalanche, or will it last a bit longer?
Cute little hut
Climbing mountains by car
Softest moss in history
Drosera in the marsh
Hiking in no-man’s land
The clouds are coming
Abisko valley
‘Butterball’
Fieldwork in the tundra
Abisko valley
Little plot
Clouds and sun and mountains
Making soup on a campfire with a view
Little creek on high elevations
Skua on the look-out
Melting snow in a river
Rhodiola rosea and the Törnetrask lake
Beginning of spring
Flooded plots, melting snow, impassible wetness
Ferns and horsetails
Chile 2015
Trips to the field sites were sometimes a real adventure, especially right after snowmelt
Lunch made by our local colleague, with funny bread (tasty as well!)