Road trippin’

Me and my hired Nissan saw a growing friendship with every kilometer added to the counter. Without ever fearing a nasty bump or dangerously steep slope, he has shown me all the most beautiful parts of Chilean Patagonia, the land of endless roads through coin-flat grasslands and majestic mountains.

Roadtrippin'For a guy from Belgium, the wideness of Patagonia is mind-blowing. At home, it is almost impossible to follow a straight road with your eyes until it disappears behind the horizon. It happens even more rarely that you stand on top of a mountain and see the road whirling around the mountains in the distance, every now and then vanishing and appearing again over and behind yet another slope.

Roadtrippin'

Discovering the world by road stays ever fascinating. In Chile, it turns out to be one of the best ways of travelling. You get all the nice views, and all the wonderful animals only a heartbeat away, like this guanaco.

Guanaco crossing

It will however always be important to stay aware of the large effect of the roads on nature, like I described before. Chile clearly showed me another inevitable road effect in the shape of roadkill. The Patagonian roads seem to score bad on this, with dozens of ended lifes of hares and rabbits. Especially at night, the hares cross by thousands, making them almost impossible to avoid.

Of course, there is always the other side… Roadkill creates a real paradise for birds of prey, as they get served their rabbit as a fastfood happy meal.

Bird of prey

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Small adventures from far, far away

Every field ecologists hopes for field days with only few dramatic adventures. We were lucky, because there is almost no destitution to share, or it should be the thousands and thousands of sticky plants that hooked on to our clothes like the best velcro, only to fall apart in even more sticky pieces when you tried to remove them. But if that is the worst…

Sticky plants2

For a minute, it seemed to have gone wrong when we saw the family of cows that had made our plot into its favorite walking route. The result: knocked-over labels, deep tracks in the plots, angry cow faces looking at us, intruders and cowpats everywhere. Luckily, all our seedlings were strong enough to survive the trampling and limit the drama.

Cow

Nothing else could stop us from collecting data that at first sight already seems to agree seamlessly with our hypotheses. This realisation makes our days in the Chilean nature  even better and pays off the effort we had to put in to get to the other side of the world.

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But only when you are here, you start to realize how important our work on alien plant invasions really is. The Chilean nature – through tourism one of the main posts of the Chilean economy – is becoming completely infested with aliens. Close to the important harbor of Punta Arenas, it turns out that almost half of the vegetation is from European origin, with millions of dandelions, clover, daisies, ordinary European grasses and many more, all trying to elbow out the native vegetation.

Bellis perennis

Our work will help predicting the impact of the aliens on this main source of income for the Chileans, which makes it highly relevant.

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Fresh from the field!

The first day of fieldwork was long and intense, but nothing less than a success. It was a relief to find back our plots where we had left them behind 4 months ago. It was an even  bigger relief to see some tiny seedlings sprouting everywhere between the late summer vegetation. And than I did not even mention the feeling when you finally find your tiny, coin-sized temperature sensors more than ten thousand kilometers away from home!

 Plot

Of course, no mountain ecology without adventures! We had to drive up the jeep on a crazy bumpy mountain road, speckled with puddles that where almost to deep to cross and every now and then blocked with fallen trees. All day, we had to fight rain and howling winds and protect our instruments against the elements. Luckily, an almost permanent rainbow watched kindly over our efforts. We saw it as a good sign for our field campaign, with the unspoken promise that our adventures would all be surmountable.

Rainbow

We asked the rainbow for some wildlife, and it seemed to have listened, because we found a wild puma! Or wait, a fierce look in your cute eyes is maybe not enough to make you one…

Baby puma

To conclude this first day: working with a splendid view on the street of Magellan, there are less exciting jobs!

Flowery view

Greetings from Chile from the team!

The team at work

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Travelling the globe

I crossed half the globe. I crossed the Atlantic Ocean and the whole continent of South-America. I witnessed the turbulent air above the mighty peaks of the Andes. I passed the customs in Santiago, fought my way through all practical problems with a limited knowledge of Spanish and a great lot of nodding and smiling. I met nice people and even some very strange ones (but mostly nice). I enjoyed tasty airplane food and numerous cups of carton-tea in carton-cups. I even got time for a 3-minute visit to Brussels (see picture)!

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Now I am at the ‘Gatsby’ at the airport of Santiago, eating bad, unhealty food to return the favor of the theft of their Wifi. I am ready to go south, leave behind the amazing 30 °C of Santiago and follow the Andes as the spine in South-America’s back, all the way down. I am ready to face my experiment and what 4 month of Chilean summer and howling winds made of it.

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I keep you updated!

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Leaving spring for autumn

Spring was getting on full speed last week in Belgium. The first spring flowers were emerging everywhere and it was already warm enough to forget your jacket. It maybe false hope, but spring was in the air!

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I tried to absorb as much of the sun as possible, because next week I replace our Belgian  spring again for autumn in Punta Arenas, Chile, for a check-up on the seedlings of my experiment.

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I had a chance to visit the zoo to join the meerkats for a moment of afternoon sunbathing, before I had to start packing jackets, gloves and warm fleeces. There will be frost already in the highest plots, so I need to be prepared for the worst when I have to work long days  sitting on the frozen ground.

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Aliens and their way to the top

Remember my story about how lowland roadsides are flooded with species that do not  belong in the natural system? Remember how these new species could profit from the lower competition when the natural vegetation got destroyed by the process of road building? A lot of these species are well known to Northern Scandinavia, but some of them are not. And this last group deserves our special attention.

A group of true culture-followers. The real roadside species. The ultimate weeds. They followed human development up to the north at one point in time, some decennia or  centuries ago. We call them aliens: visitors (and sometimes invaders) from another ‘world’. (But do not let them fool you, because they are just species like our regular white clover!)

Trifolium repens

What is really curious is how almost all these aliens share the same story. Their invasion always starts in the lowlands, where they got introduced, after which they closely follow roads and human structures up into the mountains. Not too many of them really reach the top, however. We see a progressive drop-out of species on the way, victims to the cold alpine climate (but keep in mind this is a dynamic process, they could still be on their way!). This progressive loss of alien species with elevation got the fancy term ‘directional ecological filtering’ and it also seems to be happening in our subarctic ecosystem. The mountain acts as a filter, only allowing a select group of aliens to the highest elevations, while the weaker ones are filtered out (check the clear decrease in roadside alien richness with elevation as visualized by the black line on the graph).

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The question is which skills are needed to sneak through this filter to reach the highest elevations in the mountains. It turns out that all winners of the race to the top follow a similar strategy: they are all generalists, which means they can thrive in a wide range of environments. That makes them different from the vast majority of plants that got adapted for one particular situation. It also makes them incredibly suited for mountain invasion. Mountain invaders have to overcome both lowland and alpine conditions. Strong competitors loom in the lowlands, where conditions are good and fast and efficient growing are the keys. In the highlands, the harsh climate demands stress-tolerant traits to survive the cold: growing slow, staying close to the ground and using resources to fight the harsh conditions.

Summer snow

That is the reason why pure competitive alien species are stuck in the lowlands, while the generalists can follow the road all the way up to the alpine zone. While both know how to handle the intense competition in the lowlands, only the generalists can change their strategy to deal with the totally different alpine conditions from the highlands. And as soon as these villain generalists reach the top, we should foresee major problems, but that will be covered in another post!

Clear view on the vegetation gradient

This picture clearly shows how the vegetation changes drastically over only a small elevational gradient.

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